Toronado

Toronado– beer bar
Lower Haight
547 Haight @ Fillmore (Google Map)
Official Site | BeerAdvocate | Yelp
Open 11:30am to 2:00am every day
MUNI: J, N, 6, 7, 22, 24, 71
Part of the Haight Beer Crawl

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photos by Troy McClure SF

Toronado, as mentioned in the Haight Beer Crawl, needs no introduction.  It’s well-known in the Bay Area as one of the premiere Belgian beer bars, with around 80-90 available, along with a good cross-section of American craft brews.  There’s almost 50 taps and 100 bottles all told, many of which cycle in and out.  (You may want to look at those lists as examples, as they were last updated “around Christmas.”) The taps tend to be West Coast craft brews, while the bottles are mostly Belgian, with some other European and American beers thrown in.

Lines are clean, and proper glassware is always used, but Toronado is most certainly a dive.  It smells like decades of spilled beer, the bathrooms are downright icky, and service can be downright surly (which admittedly stops being cute sometimes).  It’s the kind of place that gets annoyed when Esquire names it one of the best bars in America, which will surely cause an infestation of rookies and douchebags, who’ll no doubt whine that they only take cash, even though there’s an ATM right there in the back.  That said, it’s an especially great place to spend an afternoon, before the happy hour and evening crowds show up (and they will).  That’s when it’s a little quieter, and bartenders are able and willing… well, able to help you find something you’ll like.


photo by ibison4

The layout is a typical SF-style shotgun bar, with a long bar on the right and stools with tables along the left.  When you get to the back, you can head straight to the bathroom, or turn left past the jukebox into the back room, which offers softer seating and tables, another TV, and another bathroom.

Toronado itself offers no food, though Rosamunde sausage is located one door down in the same building, and sometimes its menu will conveniently be on your table.  If sausage & beer isn’t your thing, you weirdo, you can get damn near anything else on that block- pizza, burritos, burgers, dry rub BBQ, Indian, Mediterranean, and sandwiches spring to mind, and that’s without turning the corner down Fillmore (I recommend Ali Baba’s for quick eats).

Also something worth looking out for are special beer events, most notably the Toronado Barleywine Festival, which takes over the bar in February.  Beer dinners are gaining popularity, and they’ll have brewer nights every other month or so.  Fun times, but also very crowded.

While you’re in the neighborhood…
Lucky 13 (GGBB), 2140 Market & Church
Healthy Spirits, 2299 15th St @ Castro (beer store only)

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Pizza Orgasmica & Brewing Company

Pizza Orgasmica & Brewing Company– brewpub
The Richmond
823 Clement @ 9th Ave (Google Map)
Official Site | BeerAdvocate | Yelp
House microbrew: $4.50, with $3.50 nightly specials
Open at 11am, closes Sun-Wed midnight, Thu 1am, Fri/Sat 2am
MUNI: 1, 2, 28, 38, 44

Approaching Pizza Orgasmica, you will find two entrances, both of which look like back doors.  On the left, you can enter into what I guess would be called the main dining room, across from the kitchen.  It’s not your typical pizza joint in there, though.  Chairs are nowhere to be found, as diners sit on cushions on the floor at low tables in two large U shapes. (One dining companion used the term “pizza brothel.”) It’s dark, intimate, and fairly unique outside of Mediterranean/Middle Eastern restaurants. Behind this area is a more conventional dining area, for those who can’t get off the floor once they’re on it, or for those scared of the dark.

Through the other door (or through this back dining area) is the bar area. Much of this area is visible in this TV commercial for the place, which I’m really linking to because it stars one of my favorite ex-bartenders from Lucky 13. Of note are a large, Garden of Eden-inspired mural across from the bar, and a plethora of televisions ranging in size from large to wow.  There’s a nice, long bar, behind which you’ll find six house brews and six guest taps, as well as a full bar. There are a bunch of tables across from the bar, and a few couches and other seating options scattered about the rest of the spacious room. I’ve never seen the place crowded, but that may be because I’ve never been during a major sporting event, of which they apparently show most. I do know you can show up and most any point on a Friday night and have a seat or four waiting for you.

Pitchers are available, but I’d recommend starting off with a flight, partially so you can see what-all they have to offer, but mostly because, well, let’s just say they’re better known for their pizza, which is a creative brand of California-style, quite well-regarded by locals. Service has always been  laid-back but quick and quite friendly (there’s a definite Santa Cruz kinda feel to it, really).

It’s admittedly not the best destination for beer touring purposes, but if you do find yourself in the Richmond, it’s a great place for pizza and to see what’s coming out of the Peninsula.

While you’re in the neighborhood…
540 Club, 540 Clement @ 7th Ave

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Haight & Castro Beer Crawl


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Some of San Francisco’s best beer can be found along the Haight Street corridor, which can easily be traversed in a day by foot, bus, or cab. This will take you almost the entire length of Haight Street, from the gentrified Haight-Ashbury (or “Upper Haight”) to the slightly-less-gentrified Lower Haight, and then, optionally, to the adjacent Castro for another beer bar and the City’s second-best beer store.


photo by ldandersen

The Alembic
1725 Haight St @ Cole
The Alembic is an optional start point, heading west to east.  Its focus is not on beer, but it is owned by the same folks who own Magnolia just down the street, and carries a handful of their beers, as well as some other craft & European options. At times, this may even be a better option, considering Magnolia’s frequent wait times. The Alembic also offers a wide selection of whiskeys, top-notch cocktails, and a well-regarded small plates menu, so you can probably enjoy yourself here.

Magnolia
1398 Haight St @ Masonic
Magnolia makes some of the Bay Area’s best beer, so you won’t want to skip this stop on the crawl. There can be a wait for a table, but there may be seats at either the bar or the large community table to the left as you enter (or, as mentioned, you can head to their sister restaurant, Alembic). They have an arsenal of around 15 beers in their rotation, usually with about six on tap and three on cask, as well as two or three guest brews and a handful of wines (no liquor). The menu is “new” American, with an emphasis on organics and sustainability and all that tasty shit that always seems to make cheeseburger prices jump 20%.


Alembic photo by premshree, Magnolia photo by bittermelon

Magnolia is the last stop in the Haight-Ashbury, so you have a few options at this point. Haight-Ashbury is flanked by the east end of Golden Gate Park (including Kezar Stadium and what you will immediately recognize as “Hippie Hill”) and Buena Vista Park, which offers views of downtown San Francisco. And two blocks north, an extension of Golden Gate Park called The Panhandle runs parallel to Haight. Any of these could be a nice place to people-watch with a picnic spread, augmented perhaps by a growler or two from Magnolia.

If you prefer to remain efficient with your beer consumption- indeed a noble endeavor- you again have two choices. Magnolia is about 3/4 of a mile from the beer mecca Toronado. If you’re not much into walking, Haight has a handful of buses that will take you down the hill to Lower Haight, and cabs are abundant (by San Francisco standards) along its length. If you do want to walk, it’s downhill the whole way, and it makes a lot more sense to stop in at the Page or Healthy Spirits on your way to Toronado.

The Page
298 Divisadero @ Page
The Page is a block off of Haight St, on Divisadero, which is the traditional divider between the Haight-Ashbury and Lower Haight. It has 20+ good beers on tap, and about a dozen meh beers in bottles (plus Hamms in a can). Friendly, attractive bartenders pour mostly West Coast craft brews (including the occasional offering from the aforementioned Magnolia) and their whiskey selection is nothing to sneeze at, either (other spirits and wine are also available). This neighborhood bar definitely has a lounge feel to it, composed entirely of wood, red velvet, and dark sexiness (much like The Red Room in Santa Cruz), but it manages to avoid being pretentious or scene-y, which I suspect would be its fate if it were about anywhere else in San Francisco. Billiards and a bona fide foosball table are also available if you need to work up a thirst. Friday & Saturday night crowding can sometimes be a problem, but otherwise it’s a very comfy bar, and a good place to sample some west coast brews.

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The Page photo by Troy McClure SF

Healthy Spirits
2299 15th Street @ Castro
If you need to take a breather from consumption, maybe a trip to Healthy Spirits in lieu of the Page is a better idea. There’s no bar, but this outwardly-normal corner store has about 300 beers available (and a respectable wine list as well). From Haight & Divisadero (or Haight & Page), walk (or take the 24 Divisadero bus to avoid the hill) south on Divisadero, which will veer left and turn into Castro Street, and stop at the corner of 15th Street. The guys working there are quite helpful and are more than willing to help you find something you’ll like. And nothing says class like using 750mL of Italian Shangrila Fume as hair of the dog tomorrow morning. Locals can inquire about their Beer of the Month club, and visitors can get beer shipped back home. To get back on track, either take the 24 bus back to Haight and head downhill, or walk down 15th and make a left at Sanchez for a 15 minute walk to Toronado (or take 15th to Market, veer left on Market, and stop by Lucky 13).

Toronado
547 Haight @ Fillmore
Toronado, I suspect, needs no introduction. Widely known as one of the best beer bars in Northern California (if not the best), they have almost 50 taps (posted on a board) and around 100 bottles (ask for a bottle list). Around 75% of these are Belgian, 20% are California craft beers, and the last 5% are quality brews from the West Coast and Europe.  It’s a dive (hike up your pants legs when you go to pee), and service can be a bit… what’s the word… pissy, so know what you want before you order and have your cash out (that’s cash, not card).  Toronado, being infamous as it is, usually has quite the crowd, so make this a late night or afternoon stop, or keep one eye scanning for open seats.  There’s no kitchen, but Rosamunde Sausage is located in the same building, and there’s plenty of quick food options on the block.


Toronado photos by chuckbiscuito and ibison4

Mad Dog in the Fog
530 Haight @ Fillmore
Mad Dog is one of the premier sports bars in San Francisco.  This is the place where soccer hooligans gather at 5am to watch a match, as well as masses of orange-clad fans watching the Giants win the World Series.  There’re a dozen TVs all over the place, with a nice long bar and some very comfy booths, as well as a back patio.  It’s nice and roomy, unless there’s a big sporting event to be watched, and there’s a kitchen pumping out pretty good pub grub.  And with a recent remodel came a pretty impressive bottle selection… Allagash, Ninkasi, Deschutes, the Bruery, and Victory, to name a few.  However, having a lot of bottles does not a beer bar make. For starters, it’s TWELVE FUCKING FIFTY for a bomber of Denogginizer. The joint ain’t cheap.  Hell, they have a “special” of 4 Budweisers for $15.  I mean, really?  Also, I ordered a Jubelale last year during the aforementioned World Series, and I had to remove the wax from the bottle with my thumbnail, as that was the solution offered by the bartender at the time.  Lame.  But, they do indeed have a ton of good beer, and it is a good place to watch a ballgame, and it’s right across the street from Toronado, so hey, you’ll be nearby at some point, anyway.

Lucky 13 (GGBB)
2140 Market @ Church
If Toronado didn’t kill you, you can weave five blocks south to Lucky 13, whose beer selection can’t touch Toronado’s, but is respectable all on its own. It’s one of SF’s larger bars, so you’ll be able to breathe a little easier here than anywhere else on this crawl, not to mention enjoy a nice 5% ABV beer after the hoppy bombs that Magnolia & Toronado specialize in. Lucky 13 has no kitchen, but you’ll pass several good food options on your way down Church from Haight.

And that, good visitor, is GGBB’s Haight Beer Crawl.  Granted, this would make for quite the full day, but it can be done (and- as I can attest- has been).  And as I well know, finding good concentrations of good beer in a strange city can be daunting, so even if you can’t do the whole thing, you’ll be able to sample a fine cross-section of good beer without spending too much time buried in a map.  If you had to ask what the most important stops are, I’d have to say Magnolia and Toronado, so if time or money gets tight, make these two a priority, but all six of these places would be a lot of fun for the traveling beer geek.  Or local beer geek, for that matter.

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City Beer Store and Tasting Bar

City Beer Store and Tasting Bar– beer store & tasting bar. Obviously.
SOMA
1168 Folsom St @ 7th Street (Google Map)
Official Site | BeerAdvocate | Yelp
Open Tuesday-Saturday Noon – 10p, Sunday Noon – 6p
MUNI/BART: 12, 19, 27, and 47.
MUNI’s F, J, K, L, M, and T lines, as well as BART, will get you to Civic Center station, which is three of SF’s most… let’s say “urban” blocks away.

In researching for this blog- which is oh-so-strenuous- I made a stop at City Beer last night, and asked the owner Craig, shown here with his wife and co-worker Beth, how many beers he has available.  He said he was a bit low at the moment, and he was down to a paltry 375.  He peaks when the winter brews come out at around 450, but it usually holds steady around 400.

Yes, I’m sure that your buddy’s brother Gherkin knows about this place that has 5,000 beers on tap, but I’ll still put City Beer up against any bar in California in not only quantity but quality of beer selection.  And anyway, Gherkin still thinks calico cats are a sign of the devil, so you should know better than to listen to him anyway.


photo by bsii

In the store, you’ll find six refrigerators full of beer (do not be alarmed by the Red Stripe- the people who live upstairs like it), and about eight shelving units, all taller than you.  Behind the bar are six taps, rotated constantly, usually pouring various seasonals or offerings from a featured brewer/style/theme.  Everything is clearly (and fairly) priced, and mixing and matching of six-packs is encouraged by 10% off the whole thing. (Carriers are in the back, near the bathroom.)

Quite niftily, everything in the building can also be enjoyed right there on the premises, for a $1 corkage fee.  The proper glassware is of course employed, and splitting among friends is also welcome.  There’s not a huge amount of seating, but there are a few tables & chairs in addition to the modestly-sized bar.  And yes, if you select something from the shelves, you can get it chilled while you enjoy something already cold.  There’s no kitchen, but simple cheese & meat plates are offered, along with TCHO chocolates.

And if you’re not really sure what you want to try, Craig & Beth are quite personable, and always eager to help you find something new, if you can give them a starting point (and no, Coors Light is not a starting point).  Craig started this business not just to make money, but to finally bring a respectable tasting bar to San Francisco, and his passion for the product shows.

Events of many kinds are regular here.  At the time of this writing, they are expecting Stone’s 13th Anniversary Ale in soon, and will be serving it next week alongside the 9th, 11th, and 12th Anniversary Ales.  During the 2009 SF Beer Week, they hosted a Sour Beer & Chocolate night.  (Mullet night is also on the docket.)


photo by bittermelon

If City Beer could be said to have a downside, it would have to be its size.  While it makes this San Francisco native proud to see people coming out in droves to support beer, they always manage to get to the barstools before I do, and navigating the place can get a bit tricky (especially during special events).  So if you have the opportunity, come before happy hour, when you’ll be able to converse a bit with Craig & Beth, and get the most out of what is among the best beer destinations in the country.

And for you San Francisco transplants who are no doubt wondering- no, not even Craig can get you a sixer of Yuengling.

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San Francisco Brewing Co.

San Francisco Brewing Company– brewpub
CLOSED 11/2009
North Beach
155 Columbus Ave, @ Pacific & Kearny (Google Map)
Official Site | BeerAdvocate | Yelp
House microbrew: $3.50-$5.50, $1.75 for happy hour, but it’s still not worth it.
Open Sun-Thu noon-midnight, Fri-Sat noon-2am
MUNI: 1, 9X, 9AX, 9BX, 10, 12, 20, 30, 41, 45, 82, 91.

I do not mean this site to be a review service; there are plenty of other sites that can do that for you. So please, do not set foot in this dump expect me to sully this post with my lowly, ignorant opinions. (Seriously, though.)

The location of SF Brewing Co. is quite lovely, sitting in the shadow of the Transamerica Pyramid and the Coppolla Building.  The space itself is actually pretty nice too.  The nautically-themed, saloon-ish front room is all dark, well-worn wood, and pictures of the old Barbary Coast adorn the walls across from the bar.  There might be a few people sitting at the bar, but the tables tend to be empty.  In fact, it’s a lot like the bar in Who Framed Roger Rabbit (not the club where Jessica sings, the really depressing one where Roger almost gets Dipped in front of “a bunch of drunken reprobates”).  Going around the bar and past the ladies’ room (men, you go downstairs near the entrance to wee), there’s a back room that’s a bit more lively, with the chatter of some of the young, urban professionals from the nearby Financial District.  There are a smattering of tables arranged around one of the copper brewing tanks, and large windows look out over Columbus and Pacific avenues.  There is a TV present, but considering it was off during the NBA Finals, I shall assume it is broken, and has been for some time.

Service is adequate, if a bit on the slow side, and the food is adequate, if a bit on the pricey side.  Beers, according to the menu, are $5.50 a pint, but $1.75 at happy hour.  I paid $3.50 for mine. (Don’t ask me, I only write the blog.)  Food is very standard American fare- burger, chicken sandwich, fried calamari.

The beer is mostly named for ghosts of San Francisco past, such as the Barbary Coast and the infamous Emperor Norton.  They usually have a half-dozen beers on tap, with no guest brews.  They also offer a scant selection of standard liquors.  One thing they do have up on most other places is a variety of options for beer-to-go.  They offer growlers, cubes, and kegs. And for a mere $1250, they’ll custom brew a tank (10 kegs) for you. Though why you’d ever want to…

While you’re in the neighborhood…
La Trappe, 800 Greenwich @ Columbus & Mason
Church Key, 1402 Grant @ Green
Rogue (GGBB review), 673 Union Street between Powell & Columbus
Seriously, go to any of these three. They’re all better. Even if they’re closed.

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Elizabeth Street Brewery

Elizabeth Street Brewery – brewery
Noe Valley
Official Site | Twitter
House microbrew: free!
Open on the occasional Saturday afternoon
MUNI: 24, 35, 48.

So Elizabeth Street Brewery isn’t what one would normally expect of a brewpub or a bar.  It’s also not what you’d expect of a random basement in residential Noe Valley, which ESB also is.  You see, Richard and Allie Brewer-Hay (I know, right?) like beer.  So they decided to start making their own.  A few years and an episode of While You Were Out later, they’ve developed a regular brewing schedule and attracted a small but loyal following.  Eventually, Richard plans to open a brewpub on Noe Valley’s main drag, 24th Street.  But in the meantime, Elizabeth Street Brewery operates at their home, and every so often the doors are opened for tasting.

It’s a bit hidden away, in a very nondescript house on the corner.  This is by design, as they not only live there with their two kids, but they also received a bit of a talking to, though eventually a blessing, from the SFPD, likely spurred by some annoying yuppie neighbor (which are not unheard of in Noe Valley).  It is for this reason I’ve left ESB’s address off of this post- it’s essentially a speakeasy for the time being.  You can check in on their website or follow their Twitter feed to see when they’re opening up- generally Saturday afternoons from about noon to 3pm, especially in July and August.

Once you do find it, you’ll find a very friendly group of beer drinkers enjoying sunshine in the backyard, or a custom-made bar room in the basement, courtesy While You Were Out.  Upon entering the side door, Richard greeted us with a hearty handshake and a taster glass of his Daddy’s Chocolate Milk, and we sat down in the backyard with about a dozen other beer enthusiasts.  If you’ve been to a neighbor’s picnic, then you have a pretty good idea of what Elizabeth Street Brewery is like (the fun neighbors who brew their own beer and give it to you for free, not the ones who complain every time you play Rock Band).  There is a cozy barroom downstairs, which I got to poke my head into (this is also where the tip jar is).  You can take a look at it on their Flickr photostream.  Richard is generally milling about, refilling glasses (quite efficiently, I must add) and talking beer with fellow connoisseurs and colleagues.  Unsurprisingly, he’s also a member of several beer clubs, and he’ll pour some of their offerings for you, as well.  Did I mention there was a tip jar on the bar downstairs?

That’s about all there is to say.  It’s certainly a different bar/brewpub experience than most, but it’s a lot of fun.  Oh, and I guarantee that if you get the chance to visit, you’ll have the opportunity to use what is without a doubt the nicest, cleanest bar bathroom in San Francisco.

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Lucky 13

Lucky 13 – beer bar / dive bar
2140 Market @ Church (Google Map)
Official Site | BeerAdvocate | Yelp
Local microbrew: $4.00 (Happy Hour: $1 off all beer until 8pm)
Open Mon-Wed 4pm-2am, Thu-Sun 11am-2am
MUNI: F, K, L, M, J, N, 22, and 37. 6, 7, 24, 33, and 71 will get you in the neighborhood, too.
Part of the Haight Beer Crawl

(Note- This entry is for the San Francisco location.)

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If the man above scares you, perhaps Lucky 13 is not for you.

Lucky 13 is what San Franciscans think of as a dive bar.  Granted the term is used for many different types of places, depending where you are, but the San Francisco dive is generally in or around the Mission District, is loud, slightly funny-smelling, employed with well-tattooed friendly people serving unfriendly tattooed people.  The San Francisco dive is not a place in which you will get stabbed or hit with a pool cue, and there will be no drug deals going on in the parking lot (unless you mean weed, but that like, totally doesn’t count).

Thankfully, the clientele of the especially large-for-San-Francisco Lucky 13 is a bit friendlier than many of its close relatives in the Mission District.  Upon entry, there is a long bar along the right, behind which you will find, at the time of this writing, 26 taps, 26 bottles, and a full bar (though they’re planning to bring the beer total up to a nice round 60, with the addition of a new bank of refrigerators behind the bar).  There’s free popcorn at the far end of the bar, as well as Goldfish and Milk-Bones behind the bar.  There’s no kitchen, but there’s tons of portable food available in the neighborhood, which you’re welcome to bring in (they do a mean barbecue on Saturdays, though).  There’s also a pool table at the back, which will set you back a buck a game (free on Sundays, but Tuesday is league night).  Opposite the bar, there are a line of tables, interrupted by what is considered one of the best punk jukeboxes in San Francisco.

There are two upstairs areas. One stairway, in the back, leads up to the ATM and a handful of pinball and other arcade games, and allows a good bird’s-eye view of the bar (below), for those who enjoy people-watching.  The other stairway is closer to the front, on the left, and will bring you up to more seating (and a Ms. Pacman, if you’re so inclined).  The restrooms are at the front of the bar, on either side of the photobooth.

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At the far back right corner, there’s a door out to the patio.  It’s not huge, and it’s in the middle of a residential block, so there’s no confusing it for a proper German biergarten, but you can smoke and get a breath of fresh air at one of the four tables, or the semi-hidden corner spot behind a couple of small trees.  Out here, as well as inside, keep an eye out for dogs, as there are often a handful (if not a dozen) on the premises at any given time.

Lucky 13, being such a big and centrally-located bar, can be quite crowded Fridays and Saturdays, though if you’re paying attention you can usually find a seat or two within a few minutes.  Service is generally quick, and there’s usually enough people working to handle any crowd that fits in the building.  During the week, it tends to collect a lively variety of folks from the surrounding Mission, Haight, and Castro neighborhoods, and is considerably calmer than the weekends, though it’s rarely what you would call “dead” after about 4pm. (Yes, it is in that Castro, but it is not a gay bar. Though I would suggest that if such a thing would be a problem, you’re visiting the wrong town.)

It offers a much better beer variety than you’d expect from a slummy dive bar.  They concentrate on west coast microbrews, with a handful of Belgians.  In fact, if you look above the beer list (in the middle of the bar, by the taps) you’ll see a few signs that say “Bud” and “Coors” (despite that, local hipsters can still find PBR and Corona here).  It’s happy hour every day from opening to 8pm, when you can find most of the microbrews for a paltry three bucks, but even at full price, nothing is what you’d call expensive.

And finally, if you see me, which you probably will if you’re at Lucky 13, for god’s sake come say hi, I’ll buy ya a beer.

While you’re in the neighborhood…
Toronado, 547 Haight @ Fillmore
Healthy Spirits (beer store), 2299 15th St @ Castro

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